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Legacy Lives On: Nepal Mourns the Legendary Mountaineer Nirmal Purja

After a deadly avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak, Nepal pays tribute to Nirmal Purja, the famed ‘Nims’ climber whose legacy is celebrated by students, officials and the mountaineering world.

Source: bbc.co.uk2 min read
Mourners and students light candles to offer their condolences after the death of mountaineer Nirmal Purja
Mourners and students light candles to offer their condolences after the death of mountaineer Nirmal Purja (Students and staff at Purja’s former school light candles, commemorating the fallen mountaineer.)

In brief

A tragic avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak claimed the lives of all ten members of a mixed climbing team, including Nepalese legend Nirmal Purja. Tributes poured in across Nepal, with the Prime Minister, his brother, and local students honoring his courage and dedication. Despite his international acclaim for scaling all 14 Himalayan peaks in six months, Purja’s legacy is now tinged by recent allegations of misconduct. The incident highlights the perilous nature of high‑altitude climbing while underscoring the profound impact a single climber can have on a nation’s spirit.

Tragedy struck on Pakistan’s Broad Peak when an avalanche claimed all ten members of a diverse expedition, six of whom were from Nepal, including the world‑famous climber Nirmal Purja.

Purja, known as ‘Nims’, captured global attention after completing the world’s 14 tallest peaks in just over six months. His death sent shockwaves through the mountaineering world and reverberated across Nepal, where he is hailed as a national hero.

In a heartfelt tribute, Nepal’s Prime Minister Balendra Shah wrote: “His history of courage, dedication and contribution will always remain inspiring.” Purja’s brother Kamal shared an emotional message on Facebook: “I feel as though I have lost my whole world. My brother was not only my younger brother – he was my heart.” The post continued, “Although our hearts are broken, we are incredibly proud of you. Your legacy will live forever.”

At the Small Heaven School in Chitwan district, where Purja once studied, students and staff lit candles to honor him. One student, Sarbagya Paudel, recounted: “His bravery has set a great example for our school. Not only has he made our school proud, but he has also brought pride to Nepal.” Former hostel supervisor Shailendra Baral remembered a fearless young Purja, adding: “He was honest and an obedient student, which made us happy. We found courage in him even when he was a child.”

The avalanche disaster also drew attention to the broader expedition, which included noted Nepalese climbers such as Pur Bahadur Gurung and Kili Pemba Sherpa. Their sudden loss underscores the risks faced by even the most seasoned mountaineers.

Purja’s illustrious career stretched beyond climbing. He served 16 years in the British military, 10 in the Special Forces, and was awarded an MBE in 2018. He was also the first Gurkha to summit Everest while serving. However, his fame has been complicated by sexual allegations surfaced in 2024, which he denies.

Social media flooded with tributes, with many describing Nepal as mourning its “legend” and a “great climber.” The collective sadness is a reminder of the perilous beauty of the Himalayas.

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