In brief
As the arepa becomes a symbol of national pride, chefs like Gustavo Zapata from Colombia's Sancho Paisa restaurant navigate the heated culinary contest over the origins and superiority of this beloved cornbread.
A simmering culinary rivalry reigns between Colombia and Venezuela, rooted not in politics or sports, but in the cherished arepa. This cornbread, integral to the diets of both nations, serves as both a breakfast staple and a late-night snack. But opinions about its origin and superiority often ignite passionate debates among citizens from both sides of the border.Gustavo Zapata, a 39-year-old chef at the well-known Sancho Paisa restaurant chain in Medellín, Colombia, emphasizes that “everyone defends their territory,” while preparing various types of arepas that reflect the rich traditions of Colombian cuisine. This culinary contention reflects a broader trend seen around the world, where countries such as Peru and Ecuador bicker over ceviche, while Israelis and Lebanese argue about hummus, and Northern African nations debate the origins of couscous.The stakes of the arepa argument are underscored by Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro’s efforts to position the arepa as a symbol of Venezuelan nationalism, fueling tensions over who can rightfully claim it. The ongoing economic and political crises in Venezuela have resulted in mass migrations, allowing Venezuelans to carry their unique interpretation of the arepa into global spaces, thereby intensifying the culinary conflict.In this intricate culinary landscape, the question remains—who truly lays claim to the arepa? As this debate unfolds, both nations continue to celebrate the essential role of this delicious staple in their cultural identities.
